Of Step-wells and Kalyanis

As you zip through the Gadag – Koppal highway you will be forced to slow down at Lakkundi village due to the half a dozen or so speed-breakers distributed generously along the road. This is only to be expected in villages adjoining the highway in India, right?

And you curse the road-builders for this inconvenience and accelerate angrily once you cross the village.

Did it occur to you that maybe the excessive number of speed-breakers at Lakkundi have been installed there for a purpose other than causing inconvenience to you?

Did you get the feeling that the numerous speed-breakers at Lakkundi are actually imploring you to stop -over and have a look around? I guess not. 

You just drove past a treasure trove of History and culture – of the Kalyani kind.

If you bother get off your SUV and begin to explore the by-lanes of Lakkundi you will stumble onto numerous ancient temples and step-wells of exquisite craftsmanship. 

Ah, I see, you are now prepared to give Lakkundi a glance..good. Come let’s explore..

We pass by a few temples — then you say you know all about Chalukyan period architecture and temples. 

After all you have been to Badami,Pattadakal and Aihole, haven’t you?

But my dear sir, pardon me for correcting you. Yes, these temples are of the Chalukyan period but not of the Badami kind!

And you go “HUH?”

You see, there were Chalukyan dynasties of all kinds those days..What you are referring to are the Badami Chalukyans. And then there were the Eastern Chalukyans who ruled from Vengi. But the temples here at Lakkundi were built by the Western Chalukyans of Kalyan.

Well read, as I am sure you are Sir, you look a bit chastened. You know, History has a habit of ambushing the unwary.

Oh, I can see you are awestruck by what you have just seen and your camera has become hyper-active..

You say you have seen these kind of pushkarnis and step-wells at several other places too..

But I would like to add that what you are seeing and photographing here are called Kalyanis – I know it is a bit confusing, especially for a man of your extensive knowledge, but there it is..

There is a reason these wells are called Kalyanis. Kalyani literally means “she who causes auspicious things” – therefore faithfuls who take a bath in these wells will have auspicious things happening to them, you see.

Now you are admiring the craftsmanship of these temples and are silently applauding the Kalyani artisans of yore – but here I again I must interrupt your thought process and remind you that these are carved in the Gadag style of Architecture…

I can see you are getting a bit irritated and have shoved your camera into the bag..you seem to be keen on getting back to the air-conditioned comfort of your SUV…

Understandable. I guess, what with the Sun beating down on you so harshly and the dust getting into your mouth…

I am sorry you had to leave in such a hurry. Good day, Sir, have a safe and comfortable journey!

 

 

 

 

 

 

Of Step-wells and Kalyanis

As you zip through the Gadag – Koppal highway you will be forced to slow down at Lakkundi village due to the half a dozen or so speed-breakers distributed generously along the road. This is only to be expected in villages adjoining the highway in India, right?

And you curse the road-builders for this inconvenience and accelerate angrily once you cross the village.

Did it occur to you that maybe the excessive number of speed-breakers at Lakkundi have been installed there for a purpose other than causing inconvenience to you?

Did you get the feeling that the numerous speed-breakers at Lakkundi are actually imploring you to stop -over and have a look around? I guess not. 

You just drove past a treasure trove of History and culture – of the Kalyani kind.

If you bother get off your SUV and begin to explore the by-lanes of Lakkundi you will stumble onto numerous ancient temples and step-wells of exquisite craftsmanship. 

Ah, I see, you are now prepared to give Lakkundi a glance..good. Come let’s explore..

We pass by a few temples — then you say you know all about Chalukyan period architecture and temples. 

After all you have been to Badami,Pattadakal and Aihole, haven’t you?

But my dear sir, pardon me for correcting you. Yes, these temples are of the Chalukyan period but not of the Badami kind!

And you go “HUH?”

You see, there were Chalukyan dynasties of all kinds those days..What you are referring to are the Badami Chalukyans. And then there were the Eastern Chalukyans who ruled from Vengi. But the temples here at Lakkundi were built by the Western Chalukyans of Kalyan.

Well read, as I am sure you are Sir, you look a bit chastened. You know, History has a habit of ambushing the unwary.

Oh, I can see you are awestruck by what you have just seen and your camera has become hyper-active..

You say you have seen these kind of pushkarnis and step-wells at several other places too..

But I would like add that what you are seeing and photographing here are called Kalyanis – I know it is a bit confusing, especially for a man of your extensive knowledge, but there it is..

There is a reason these wells are called Kalyanis. Kalyani literally means “she who causes auspicious things” – therefore faithfuls who take a bath in these wells will have auspicious things happening to them, you see.

Now you are admiring the craftsmanship of these temples and are silently applauding the Kalyani artisans of yore – but here I again I must interrupt your thought process and remind you that these are carved in the Gadag style of Architecture…

I can see you are getting a bit irritated and have shoved your camera into the bag..you seem to be keen on getting back to the air-conditioned comfort of your SUV…

Understandable. I guess, what with the Sun beating down on you so harshly and the dust getting into your mouth…

I am sorry you had to leave in such a hurry. Good day, Sir, have a safe and comfortable journey!

Adoni – A hidden gem off the highway

Adoni was known as “Chota Bombay” during the British Raj days because it was a bustling market hub for cotton,grains and textiles.

Though the town itself is not very interesting, but a few kilometers drive away from the town is an amazing conglomeration of fort ruins, hill top shrines, dargahs and caves.

There were hardly any tourists around except for a few visitors to the Anjaneya Temple. Of course, there was the shepherd boy to keep me company,

On every turn or bend in this rocky terrain I stumbled on to a shrine or a dargah.

Adoni Fort was controlled by the Vijayanagar Kings for some decades then it was taken over by Bijapur Shahs – later by Nizams, Mughals and finally by the British.

It was so hot and dry that day I cooled off near a shady temple pond – and I tried my hand at bird shooting.

There were hill top shrines all around – for Shiva, for Yellamma, for Hanuman ..

There were caves and nooks used by mendicants and sadhus..

There are several Temple ruins from the Vijayanagar period…

Archaeological  Survey of India guys are piecing together the history of this region – slowly and painstakingly..

How was this sculpted to pefection? – I wondered..

I didn’t get enough time to scout around this place thoroughly – may be I will return soon…

and the Adoni folks seemed to agree with me…

To zoo or not to zoo?

Yes, I went to the zoo.

Yes, I shot pictures.

But I am against zoos.

Then why did I go?

Because it is there! – avalok

“Every time you go to the zoo, you prolong the captivity of the animals there! If no one goes to the zoos, there will be no zoos! Destroying the evil is very simple and it is in your hand!” ― Mehmet Murat Ildan

 

God loved the birds and invented trees. Man loved the birds and invented cages. ~Jacques Deval

 

“I think the animals at the zoo should have to wear sunglasses so that they can’t hypnotize you.” – Jack Handy

 

The world has room to make a bear feel free; The universe seems cramped to you and me. – Robert Frost

 

“I’ve actually gone to the zoo and had animals shout to me from their cages, “I’m in here when you’re walking around like that?”” – Robin Williams

 

No one in the world needs a mink coat but a mink. ~Murray Banks

 

“The caged eagle become a metaphor for all forms of isolation, the ultimate in imprisonment. A zoo is prison.” ― Nadine Gordimer

 

A wolf in a cage is an outrage. -avalok

 

“Surely one zoo in the world should have the courage to draw the ultimate conclusion about our ancestry? A cage with Homo Sapiens in all its varying forms, perhaps then we would understand ourselves better. The question of course is whether the other animals would approve of it.” ― Cees Nooteboom

 

“The assumption that animals are without rights, and the illusion that our treatment of them has no moral significance, is a positively outrageous example of Western crudity and barbarity. Universal compassion in the only guarantee of morality.” ― Arthur Schopenhauer

 

“The question is not, “Can they reason?” nor, “Can they talk?” but “Can they suffer?” ― Jeremy Bentham

 

A refreshing morning trek to Mahakuta

“Badami – Pattadakal – Aihole” – This is the standard tourist mantra in this region of Karnataka but very few bother to visit Mahakuta. Maybe because they have to take a minor detour to reach there. In fact the group of temples at Mahakuta are the oldest Chalukyan style shrines in Karnataka. You can say this is where it all began…

 

If you go by road Mahakuta is about 17 KMs from Badami. I decided to take the 5 KMs trek route across the hills. I set off early in the morning went past the giant red sandstone cliffs of Badami – incidentally Badami is also known as “The Mecca of Rock Climbing” in India.

The locals advised me against going on the trek alone because of the desolateness of the route but I went ahead. And I was glad I did..

As is the case with most temples in India, Mahakuta also has several legends associated with it:

“Legend has it that this was the place where sage Agastya annihilated the two demon brothers, Vatapi and Ilvala. The two hillocks here are supposed to represent the dead demon brothers.”

Parasurama is believed to have taken a bath in the Holy Temple Pond at Mahakuta to expiate his sins of killing thousands of Kshatriya warriors.

And the faithful still come here to take a dip…

“Mahakuta is the typical ‘dream spot’ for a visitor hoping to seek peace and commune with mother nature in silence. This is an ancient pilgrimage spot for Shaivites and the Saktas, worshippers of the Sakti cult. It was popularly called ‘Dakshina Kashi’.” 

The local priest pointed out the Pancha – mukhi (5 faced) linga and informed me that the 

only other linga of this rare type is in Nepal.

You can read all about Mahakuta here (from Deccan Herald):

http://archive.deccanherald.com/Deccanherald/feb172004/spt5.asp

 

A fervent prayer at a Sacred site

 

I met Mr. K in Anegundi – he was on a pilgrimage tour. We were staying in the same guest house and one day during breakfast he suggested that I accompany him to Navabrindavan to offer prayers. He further added that a sincere prayer offered at the sacred site will always come true.

I agreed not because I am a religious guy but mainly because of the promise of a refreshing boat ride on the Tungabhadra river.

 

 

The mood was somber among my fellow passengers. I was wondering what each one of them could be praying for.

 

 

It was brief and pleasant ride and I went click,click,click.

 

 

We docked at the island where the samadhis of nine Madhva Saints are situated. The local priest was waiting for us.

 

 

It was a short walk from the jetty to Navabrindavan.

 

 

It was mandatory to wash our hands and feet in the holy river before entering the sacred site.

 

 

It was also mandatory to walk in bare chested.

 

 

The atmosphere was calm and serene befitting a sacred place.

 

 

Mr. K began preparations for the rituals and offerings.

 

 

He whispered into my ears – “My pooja will take sometime to finish. Meanwhile you go ahead , go around the samadhis as many times as you can while offering your prayers. More rounds you complete more effective your prayers will become.”

I did 3 rounds and while he was busy with his rituals went back to the riverside. I was wondering what exactly I am supposed to be wishing for…

 

 

After what seemed to be an inordinately long time Mr. K  joined me and we started our walk back to the jetty.

 

 

I could sense he was curious about my wish…but I didn’t say anything – at that time…

 

A brilliant minister, a magnificent madrasa and a heinous execution

 

Khwaja Mahmud Gawan, was the Persian prime minister of Muhammad Shah III Lashkari (r. 1463-1482) of the Bahmanid dynasty. 

 

 

He aggressively expanded the territory and took over most of the Vijayanagar empire. His army captured Goa and looted Kanchipuram. 

He was also an erudite scholar and had varied interests.

 

 

He brought Persian architects and artisans and built the grandest Madrasa in India which will attract the most eminent theologians, philosophers and scientists. The library of the madrasa boasted over three thousand manuscripts.

 

 

His and his Madrasa’s fame spread far and wide. But fame has its pitfalls,  it causes envy in men with weak hearts and minds.

 

 

And weak hearts usually band together hoping that collectively they can become strong. Gawan’s enemies joined hands and plotted his downfall.

 

 

They conspired with the Royal seal bearer and obtained Gawan’s official stamp on a blank document. And they proceeded to write a conspiratorial letter on it inviting a rival king to invade the Bahamani empire.

 

 

This letter was shown as a proof of Gawan’s treachery to the Shah who flew into a rage and ordered that Gawan be produced before him forthwith.

 

 

When confronted with the seemingly authentic document with his seal on it Gawan knew he had been outsmarted by his detractors.

Order for his immediate execution was pronounced by the Shah.

 

 

And Gawan said:”I am old and do not mind my death but my death is bound to become your dynasty’s end. I thank God that he gave me an opportunity to lay my life in the cause of the dynasty.”

The Shah paid no heed to his words and left the court.

 

 

Khwaja Mahmud Gawan knelt down facing Mecca and began his prayers. 

Know one knows for sure if he heard the swish of the sword when it came down and severed his head but the Bahmanid kingdom ended soon after his death.

The Shape of Ecstasy

 

A frenzied dervish, mad with love for God,

Sought out bare hills where none had ever trod.

 

 

Wild leopards kept this madman company —

His heart was plunged in restless ecstasy;

 

 

He lived within this state for twenty days,

Dancing and singing in exultant praise:

 

 

“There’s no division; we two are alone —

The world is happiness and grief has flown.”

 

 

Die to yourself — no longer stay apart,

But give to Him who asks for it your heart;

 

 

The man whose happiness derives from Him

Escapes existence, and the world grows dim;

 

 

Rejoice for ever in the Friend, rejoice

Till you are nothing, but a praising voice.

 

– Farid Ud-din Attar – 12th Century Sufi poet.

—————————————————————–

The Shape of Ecstasy is octagonal!

 

 

and how that came to be (from Wikipedia):

The Sultan saw Shah in his dream and wished that the saint come to Bidar. This dream according to many history books was realized, as when he received Shah he told his counsels, “If this is the same person I saw in my dream he should be carrying an octagon -shaped head cap”, and hence he was satisfied when Shah Khalilullah presented him with the cap. Today, even the Tomb of Shah is octagonal.

There are some places on earth…

 

” There are some places on earth…

 

 

where Mother nature mocks your camera.

 

 

There are some places on earth where your camera is defeated…..

 

 

..unable to cope with the scale and the splendor of it all. 

 

 

There are some places on earth…

 

 

where your camera is put in its place. 

 

 

There are some places on earth…

 

 

where nature dares your puny camera to do justice to it.

 

 

There are some places on earth…

 

 

where you are ashamed of your camera.

 

 

There are some places on earth…

 

 

where it is best to put your camera away and meditate!” – avalok

A trek to an isolated Megalithic Ruins

At the tail end of my Deccan Odyssey I decided to check out the Kishkinda country across the Tungabhadra river near Hampi.

You might find it hard to believe it when I say not once, during my stay in Anegundi, did I cross the river to visit Hampi. The reason being there are plenty of fascinating places in Anegundi itself. For example the first ever Fort built by the founder of the  Vijayanagar Empire.

Here is an entry from Wikipedia:

Anegundi, older than Hampi, is situated on the northern bank of Tungabhadra River. Huchappayana matha temple (with black-stone pillars and dance sculptures), Pampa Sarovara, Aramane (a ruined palace), Ranganatha temple,Kamal Mahal, and Navabrindavan are the major attractions. Nimvapuram, a nearby village, has a mount of ash believed to be the cremated remains of monkey king Vaali.

Anegundi, believed to be the monkey kingdom of Kishkindha in the epic of Ramayana, is at a distance of 5 km from the historical site of Hampi. Anjanadri hill, the birthplace of monkey-god Hanuman, and the mountain Rishimuka are the other places near Anegundi associated with Ramayana.

It is said to have one of the oldest plateaus on the planet, estimated to be 3,000 million years old. So, only local story-tellers refer to Anegundi as the maternal home of Bhoodevi (Mother Earth).

But I had other things on my mind. I had heard about an ancient site called Hirebenekal in Anegundi where stone-age megalithic structures can be found.

I began inquiring around as to how to get there when Mr. Sridhar – son of the landlord of the Guest house where i was staying, volunteered to take me there in exchange for some tips on Photography. I readily agreed. 

We took off next day. Most of the route hugs a canal and passes through some scenic and rugged countryside.

After about 4 Kms we crossed a bridge and veered into the path leading to the foot of the Hirebenekal Hill.

It was rough going then on because…

We were lucky to bump into a villager who. for a reasonable fee, agreed to act as a guide for the trek to the site. So now we were three. A short climb up the hill and we were on a fairly level plateau..with rocks of all shapes strewn all over..

It was getting pretty hot, especially because of the rocks radiating the mid day heat strongly..

‘May be the heat has split this rock right in half..’ I wondered..

There was relief all around when we stumbled upon a wonderful pond filled with wild weeds, lotuses and hyacinths..

We knew we had reached the Heritage site when we spotted a bureaucratic sign-board ..

and few dozen meters on .. yet another…

And we sure did…It certainly was an eerie experience – wandering among the Tombs and Cists…pondering about the people who built these, their culture,the tools they could have used etc.

I will let the hardworking but little appreciated guys of the ASI (Archaeological Survey of India) to throw some light on the marvels of Hirebenekal…

We plodded on..with Mr. Lingappa – our guide – pointing out the main structures to us..

There were more sign – boards to help visitors figure out the structures…

There were boards which ventured into guessing the layouts that could have been..

‘ Watch out guys. these are tombs not bus shelters…’

Our vocabulary too was enriched by the addition of some new words..

The place was surreal to say the least…

and vast..

It was time to head back to Anegundi…

And some ASI guy with a poetic bent of mind wondered..

and I thought I too could contribute to the research..

Ok, at least I made an attempt…